Colored ABS Plastic Sheet - Used to laminate to your own locally-purchased plywood thickness of your choice. The sheet is smooth on the side that gets laminated to your plywood, and has a slightly textured haircell finish on the exterior side that helps minimize/camouflage scratches and abrasions. It ships rolled up for economical shipping cost and can be easily cut with a utility knife. We recommend that you make your cuts with the haircell finish side facing up, as this finish helps prevent your blade from straying away from your cut line.
Dimensions: 7' 11 1/2" (2.426m) x 3' 11 1/2" x (1.206m)
NOTE: Regarding the size of the ABS sheet . . . it is made just a bit smaller than actual 4 'x 8', because during sheet-to-sheet laminating between plywood and ABS in the factory you need a little space between the edges of the wood and the ABS to allow for proper purging of air between the sheets when they pass through the press roller.
NOT AVAILABLE IN AUSTRALIA
See our FlexiCase™ Design Tool to help you with design calculations, cut sheet layouts and self-laminating option tutorial.
Posted by John Tomaio on 7th Nov 2012
The laminate is all it is alleged to be, a fine product and it applies and looks as advertised. What you have to watch for is the difference in expansion coefficients between your wood substrate; the plywood, and (in my case) the 0.040" black laminate. If left in the sun after applying in the cool of my garage, you can see wrinkling - which goes away when the two elements cool again. It may not be the case with white or gray or... just be aware. My cases were 24"x24"x24", kinda large(ish). If your case is smaller or lives a night club or warehouse, you'll probably never see this.
DIY ROAD CASES® RESPONSE ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Thank you for your orders with DIY Road Cases®, as well as your recent review of our ABS Plastic Sheet.
First, let me start with saying that there is nothing to consider reference "expansion coefficients" with regard to laminating ABS and wood. While there are certainly identifiable causes for wrinkling, air bubbles, or de-lamination, "expansion coefficients" is not one of them. Properly laminated panels will not allow for the conditions to exist that would facilitate detrimental thermal expansion based on the expansion coefficients of ABS or wood.
Without going into a lot of technical mumbo-jumbo, linear and non-linear thermal expansion can affect many things, and must be taken into account in the engineering field. However, the principles of thermal expansion, or expansion coefficients, only come into play regarding laminating ABS Plastic to wood if the laminating process itself is faulty. Otherwise, laminated wood would constantly wrinkle, bubble, or de-laminate when exposed to the sun, or high temperatures, which is certainly not the situation.
Properly laminated panels for road cases can sit in the desert in the baking summer sun and will not wrinkle, bubble, or de-laminate. We did a video shoot in the Mojave Desert last summer with one of the bands that we handle here at our firm, and about 50-60 road cases sat out in the 100 degree-plus sun from dawn until dusk for three days, and then all night, and not one case experienced any issues.
The most common reason that wrinkles, air bubbles, or de-lamination occur is from the use of an improper adhesive. It must be specifically formulated for laminating plastic to wood. As specified in our Laminating Tutorial, we only recommend two adhesives for laminating in a do-it-yourself scenario (as the industrial process works differently): DAP Weldwood High-Strength Spray Adhesive or 3M 90 Spray Adhesive. If you didn't use one of these, then there's a 95% chance that is the cause of your "case in the sun wrinkles."
The second most common cause of laminating issues (assuming that the proper adhesive is used in the first place) is the lack of roper continuous compression on the ABS-laminated wood for a period of al least 12 hours, but preferably 24 hours. This is critical to proper adhesion during the drying process.
From there, it could be a few other things . . . bad plywood, plywood that may be wet (even if it doesn't feel damp to the touch on the exterior ply), using particle board or OSB instead of actual plywood, or not enough time spent working out potential air pockets in a given panel after applying the ABS before the compression phase (this is why we tell you to cut your panels first, use them as templates to cut your ABS pieces, and then laminate each one individually, as full-sheet to full-sheet application rarely works in a do-it-yourself environment without the proper machinery).
I hope this helps with identifying the potential cause of your wrinkles, and prevent this from occurring in future projects.
Director of Sales & Merchandising
DIY Road Cases®